Fingerboard 20mm Edge Training Guide for Climbers

Master the 20mm fingerboard hang with our expert guide. Build forearm strength and tendon resilience with proper form, steps, and safety tips.

How to Perform

  1. Place both hands on a 20 mm edge using a half-crimp or open-hand grip with your thumbs tucked or neutral.
  2. Engage your shoulders by pulling your shoulder blades down and back to avoid hanging on your ligaments.
  3. Step off the ground or a chair to transition your full weight onto your fingers while keeping a slight bend in your elbows.
  4. Maintain a rigid core and avoid swinging your body while holding the position for a set duration, typically 7 to 10 seconds.
  5. Release the edge by placing your feet back on the ground before your grip fails completely.
  6. Rest for a minimum of two minutes between hangs to allow for full ATP recovery in the small muscles of the hand.

Common Mistakes

  • Full-crimping with the thumb wrapped over the index finger
  • Shrugging your shoulders up toward your ears during the hang
  • Continuing the set until your fingers involuntarily slip or dry fire
  • Holding your breath which increases internal thoracic pressure

Muscles Worked

Primary movers

  • Forearms

Stabilizers

  • Finger Flexors
  • Shoulder Stabilizers
  • Core

Related Guides

Forearms · Strength