Strength
Fingerboard 20 mm edge
A fundamental isometric hold designed to build the specific tendon and forearm strength required for rock climbing.
How to perform.
Follow the sequence — setup is half the lift.
Place both hands on a 20 mm edge using a half-crimp or open-hand grip with your thumbs tucked or neutral.
Engage your shoulders by pulling your shoulder blades down and back to avoid hanging on your ligaments.
Step off the ground or a chair to transition your full weight onto your fingers while keeping a slight bend in your elbows.
Maintain a rigid core and avoid swinging your body while holding the position for a set duration, typically 7 to 10 seconds.
Release the edge by placing your feet back on the ground before your grip fails completely.
Rest for a minimum of two minutes between hangs to allow for full ATP recovery in the small muscles of the hand.
Common mistakes.
Fix these first — they cost reps, kilos, and joints.
- Full-crimping with the thumb wrapped over the index finger
- Shrugging your shoulders up toward your ears during the hang
- Continuing the set until your fingers involuntarily slip or dry fire
- Holding your breath which increases internal thoracic pressure
Muscles worked.
The primary movers do the work; the stabilizers keep the path honest.